For years now, America has been experiencing a sushi boom. It is everywhere: pre-made in your grocer's deli, at your favorite seafood restaurant, on your Chinese or Thai takeout menu. This is true even of Milwaukee: a decade ago the only Japanese food in town was served at places like "Seigo's"---Japanese steakhouses where they thrilled you with a traditional Japanese dining ambiance to distract you from mediocre food. Not all of these places have died--you can still go convention-goer watching by visiting Benihana (which also offers sushi) on Kilbourn and N. Plankinton, for example. But more recently, places like Nanakusa and Sake Tumi have added a vibrancy to Milwaukee's Japanese options.
Nanakusa is designed to fill Milwaukee's high-end Japanese niche. Good money was no doubt invested in its Historic Third Ward location (although it is rather ungloriously found as the only tenant in what is otherwise a parking garage), and its food presentation is top notch. The decor is appropriately restrained, yet hip and thoughtful. The dining room is large enough, and cocktail and sushi bars oppose each other when you first enter.
The menu is expensive for Milwaukee, but not outrageous. Mid-market Japanese places in cities like New York sell comparable food for comparable prices. With our limited options, that means Nanakusa's food is among the best of its kind around. The food is fresh, and the options plentiful. During my two visits, I've felt no need to dig into the menu's entrees because the Maki and Sushi options are more than adequate. The classic rolls like Spicy Tuna are good, the specialty rolls even better. There's something new to try on every visit.
I will continue to be a repeat visitor, and they even let you call in a takeout menu for pickup. I have only one complaint: taking themselves a little too seriously. My dining companion and I wanted to toast our pleasure at finding Nanakusa by indulging in the timeless Saki bomb: a small glass of Saki dropped in a glass of Japanese beer (usually Sapporo) and downed immediately. I've done this everywhere, as its great fun---including Nobu, the incredibly expensive, ultra-exclusive Manhattan establishment serving some of the best sushi in the world. The Saki Bomb is usually met with amusement, even encouragement, by restaurant staff. But at Nanakusa, we were scolded--worse, we were warned not to do it again for fear that the owner would see us.
For what would in any other city be a mid-market, middle quality Japanese restaurant, we thought this was incredibly silly.
